Whiteface and Esther. 2015-02-22

Observing the Whiteface Ski Center.

Lake Placid.

Photos

See all photos.

Esther Whiteface and Porter Cascade. 2014-11-15

"A Day in Two Parts" by Esther Whiteface and Porter Cascade.

Part One: Esther and Whiteface

• Slept in; started around 9:00 AM.
• Sunny day. About -6C (21F) at the ASRC and -10C (14F) at the summit.
• Icy; no mud.
• Seems like everyone wore microspikes except for those who lost them along the way.
• As a challenge, hiked to Esther without microspikes.
• Wore microspikes for the balance of the hike.
• Caught a microspike on a root and did a face-plant; injured my pride.
• Broke another trekking pole (unrelated to face-plant).
• Very hard ice above the Wilmington Bend. Had trouble getting microspikes to grip during the descent.
• Hike stats: 10.2 miles, 4000 feet.
• Trip time: 4h 35m

Part Two: Porter and Cascade

• Left after 2:00 PM; two of three parking areas were full.
• Met lots of people descending.
• Trail was thoroughly 'tenderized' by hiker traffic.
• Tagged Porter and was treated to a view of snow flurries on Algonquin.
• Cascade was darn cold; -14C (7F) and windy.
• Saw someone's pack at the junction; I wasn't the last to summit.
• Fun walking on deserted trail at dusk.
• Headlamp came in handy 45 minutes after sunset.
• Hike stats: 6.2 miles, 2300 feet.
• Trip time: 3h 2m

Sum of the parts: 16.4 miles, 6300 feet, and 7.5 hours of hiking fun.

Breezy day on Whiteface.

More guests on the summit.

Snow clouds obscure the approaching sunset.

Beautiful but darn windy and cold.

Photos

See all photos.

Esther and Whiteface 2014-04-21

Monday, April 21st, 2014

On Monday, Tom (BogHollow) and I hiked to Esther and Whiteface from the ASRC. The trail from the parking area to the base of Marble Mountain was fairly dry and free of ice and snow. The route up Marble was a mix of ice, rubble, and running water (much more water when we returned later in the day). We didn't see any other hikers the entire day.

The herd-path to Esther and trail to Whiteface remain covered in corn snow and have a solid snow-spine. We wore spikes all day. Seeing that our snowshoes weren't needed we stashed them at the Wilmington Bend prior to ascending Whiteface.

We hadn't hiked together in over a year so we had a lot of catching up to do. We spent over two hours on the summit, shooting the breeze. The sky may have been cloudy but two hours was plenty of time to develop a sunburn! 

The snow was softer during our descent but still dense enough to withstand post-holing (assuming you stayed in the vicinity of the snow-spine). It was comfortably warm upon our return (T-shirt weather) and we toasted the day's end with Tom's premium IPA.

Tom approaches the Wilmington Bend.

Snowless summit.

See all photos.

My 1st Single-Season Winter 46. 2014-03-18

Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Esther and Whiteface


I completed my first winter round, in March of 2013. It took me three winter seasons and I thought I'd never do it again let alone in a single winter season. "A single-season Winter 46? No way! It'll feel like 'work', not fun!" I never planned to do a "SSW46" but my involvement in two activities drew me in.

In the fall of 2013, and winter of this year, I had accompanied Neil on several of his "training hikes". They prepared me, mentally and physically, for challenging hikes involving greater distance and elevation gain. His successful completion of his "Project 46" fund-raiser also served to inspire me to simply 'try harder'. I rarely ever hiked two or three days in a row in winter but now I felt I could. I had also accompanied Brian (Pathgrinder) in his quest to complete his first Winter 46 round. He had joined me during my first winter round and it was a pleasure to return the favor.

By late February, mostly by virtue of accompanying others to complete their objectives, I had visited 28 peaks. It dawned on me that, with a little extra effort, I could visit the balance before winter's end. By the time of the ADK HP Foundation's Winter Gathering, serendipity was replaced by planning and I was now on a mission.

On Tuesday, March 18th, on a windless bluebird day, I sat atop Whiteface and celebrated my 46th peak of the season. I had the summit to myself and spent nearly an hour enjoying the ideal weather, the incomparable views, the solitude, and the occasional "cruk" of soaring ravens. It was a fitting end to one challenge and the inspiration to seek another.



Picture-perfect day.

Photos

See all photos.

Peaks and People

2013-12-28 Donaldson, Emmons, Seward; Pathgrinder, Sam
2014-01-25 Marshall, Cliff; Pathgrinder, Sam
2014-01-26 Cascade, Porter; Solo
2014-01-31 Wright, Algonquin, Iroquois, Colden, Tabletop, Phelps; Neil, Topofgothics
2014-02-08 Couchsachraga, Panther, Santanoni; Doru
2014-02-13 Basin, Saddleback; Neil
2014-02-16 Allen; Pathgrinder, Doru
2014-02-22 Redfield, Gray, Skylight, Marcy; Pathgrinder
2014-02-23 Dix, Hough, Macomb, South Dix, East Dix; Neil, JoeCedar, VeggieLasagna
2014-02-28 Giant, Rocky Peak Ridge; Solo
2014-03-01 Sawteeth, Gothics, Armstrong, Upper Wolfjaw, Lower Wolfjaw; Solo
2014-03-02 Street, Nye; Solo
2014-03-07 Dial, Nippletop, Colvin, Blake; Solo
2014-03-08 Seymour; Solo
2014-03-09 Haystack, Big Slide; Pathgrinder, Sam
2014-03-18 Esther, Whiteface; Solo

Whiteface and Esther 2013-01-15

Mike (TelemarkMike), Rev (Mike's canine personal trainer), and I, visited Whiteface and Esther on Tuesday. The weather was favourable, the trails paved in concrete-like snow, and the views were impressive. Rev set the pace and obliged us to complete the circuit in five and a quarter hours. The three major rest stops of the day (Esther, bend in the auto road, and Whiteface) added up to about 50 minutes. Rev chided us (it sounds like whimpering to human ears) whenever we appeared to stay in one place too long. However, keeping us moving was not Rev's primary motivation. The time we wasted at rest-stops, stood between her and the summit where she was rewarded with doggy treats.

Observations:

• A tremendous amount of snow has melted.
• Trail's snow-spine was hard as concrete.
• Conditions allowed for faster travel than in summer.
• I wore Trail Crampons, Mike wore snowshoes, Rev went barefoot.
• Post-holes were evident but diminished by the recent thaw.
• Dogs, although loyal, prefer to always be ahead of you.
• Large swaths of the auto road are no longer covered in snow.
• The snow cover has deteriorated on the lower portion of the trail up Marble Mountain.
• Met only two hikers (on Whiteface).
• Mike led up. I led down. Rev allowed us to think we were leading.

Personal Trainer Rev's Suggested Milestones
(Concessions made for humans, like rest-stops, and only two legs)
07:45 AM, ASRC.
09:30 AM, Esther. 09:35 AM, Depart Esther.
10:30 AM, Auto road. 10:35 AM, Depart along auto road.
11:05 AM, Whiteface. 11:45 AM, Depart Whiteface.
01:00 PM, ASRC.

Next time Mike and I go for a hike, I'll ask that he put ankle-weights on Rev!

Where sky, trail, and road meet.

Castle in the sky.

Tourist walkway.

Find Mike!

Photos

See all photos.

Esther 2011-08-06

The 46th peak of my second round will be Whiteface, where I'll meet my family, and I want to hike it from Whiteface Landing. Accordingly, a visit to Esther would need to be a separate hike and Saturday seemed like a good time to do it.

After a good night's rest, I left Tmax and Topo's shortly after 6:00 AM. I parked at the ASRC trailhead and departed for the Marble Mountain trail at 7:00 AM.

Largely unmarked, the trail descends a gravel road, past discarded equipment, and into a clearing containing a radio tower. At the far end of the clearing, a cairn (and a foil-wrapped stick) marks the beginning of the trail up Marble Mountain.

The trail follows directly up the fall-line and passes between five pairs of concrete blocks that are the remains of a ski lift. The trail-bed is loose rubble and challenges your footing while ascending and more so during the descent. Its upper reaches are home to at least one hermit thrush who serenaded me with its flute-like calls. 

The morning was warm and exceptionally humid and I was in no hurry to reach the summit. There was a chance of thundershowers developing but not until later in the day. I arrived at the junction at 8:45 AM and marvelled at the tall cairn. It stands below a clearly visible sign that indicates the herd-path to Esther. Nevertheless, increasing its height is an irresistible pleasure for passing hikers.

The route to Esther is a bit scratchy and seemed longer than its true length. I reached Esther's summit at around 9:20 AM. The woods were abuzz with the sound of flies and the air was filled with flitting dragonflies. It was magical.

Natty spats atop Esther.

For dessert, baby spruce cones laced with fresh sap

I paused briefly to admire the view of Whiteface. The silence was sporadically broken by the call of a raptor giving chase high above me (or was it the urgent cries of the prey?). A less natural sound was the snarling of a Harley ascending Whiteface's road. After a few minutes rest, I departed for the junction. I arrived at 10:00 AM and chose to descend as quickly as my old legs allowed.

I passed several ascending hikers and paused only to answer questions about distance, time, and presence of water. I found it difficult to maintain a brisk pace on the loose rocks of the Marble Mountain trail. I stopped to photograph a toad who obliged me by remaining motionless no matter how close I positioned my camera. An hour later, at 11:00 AM, I emerged at the ASRC parking lot. It was the end of a very enjoyable morning in the woods. 

Mr. Toad contemplating life, the universe, and everything.

Photos

See all photos.




.

Esther and Whiteface 2010-08-01

Summary

• Excellent weather.
• Trail from Wilmington is exceptionally good.
• Great views from Whiteface.

Weather

• Low 70's; warm, dry and comfortable.

Visibility

• Very good. Clear skies; slight haze.

Background
I recently decided to finish hiking the 46 and contacted the ADK 46ers. My assigned contact mailed me photocopies of my type-written hiking logs from <gulp> 1979-1982. I had forgotten how much time had passed since I lost interest in pursuing 46er status.

I got a bit choked up reading those reports, addressed to Grace Hudowalski, written by a hand younger than the thirty years that have elapsed since 1980. The biggest surprise was that my decades-old logs did not jibe with my current recollection of what I had hiked. For example, I forgot that I hiked Blake. I rummaged through my hand-written hiking logs and discovered that I had indeed hiked it on June 22, 1980. The 46er's logs lacked evidence that I hiked Esther and Whiteface. I do recall starting at the ASRC trailhead for Esther (solo) and Whiteface, in early spring, via the road with a friend. 

For Whiteface, I called my old hiking buddy and he confirmed our ascent of Whiteface. I looked through my old photos and discovered two shots of me at the stone structure near Whiteface's parking lot. I'm sporting a sky-blue jacket and pants I had made from new-fangled Gore-tex (yep, I use to make my own clothing and packs) and there's snow on the ground. It confirms my memory of the trip. However, it'd be difficult to believe that I and that 22 year old, with thick dark-brown hair, were the same person.

For Esther, I had memories but no photos of the ASRC trailhead and the ascent past the concrete foundations that were the only remains of an old ski lift on Marble Mountain. Whereas I had logged the names of hikers who registered on trailess summits, as was the custom of the time, I didn't have anything recorded for Esther and couldn't remember why not.

There was no easy way to prove I had hiked them so the simplest solution was to hike them again.


Details
I left Meacham Lake campground at 7:00 AM and traced out a route to Wilmington via Paul Smiths, Gabriels, Bloomingdale, and past Franklin Falls Pond. Somewhere east of the hamlet of Gabriels there's an awesome view of Whiteface's western face.

I arrived at the Atmospheric Science Research Center (ASRC) at 8:00 AM. At 8:15 AM I was heading down the path towards the radio tower. The area was very familiar to me and affirmed my belief I had hiked it before. The road led down the side of a small valley, past a radio tower, and up the north side of Marble. It ascended past four pairs of concrete blocks that had formed the foundation of a ski lift. The only difference was that I remember the terrain being more open (young trees) and leafless (early spring) and whereas now, in mid summer and thirty years later, it is fully forested.

The trail up Marble is unusual for the Adirondacks because it is dry and filled with loose rubble. The forest was filled with the song of my favourite bird, the Hermit Thrush, and I stopped to film the woods and their wonderful sounds.

I reached the junction with the Wilmington-Whiteface trail at 8:45 AM. The Wilmington trail was a treat. It was dry and mud-free for most of its length. The trail bed varies from bare rock to compacted soil and appears to be well-maintained (evidence of waters bars and the like). It also offers numerous views through the trees.

I pressed on and reached the junction with Esther at 9:45 AM. By 10:30 AM I was at the summit of Esther, sitting by the bronze plaque embedded in the rock commemorating Esther McComb's ascent. There are great views of Whiteface from Esther's summit and from a lookout located shortly before the summit.

At 11:00 AM I was back at the Wilmington trail and having a snack. I hadn't planned the day's provisions very well. I had one Cliff bar for breakfast and my last one for a snack. Lunch, planned for the summit, would consist of an apple and a peach. Fortunately, I had started out with 2 liters of water and I could buy more on the summit if I ran out. Despite having hiked Donaldson and Seward the previous day, I was not unduly sore or fatigued although I was apprehensive my knees would fail me at the summit. I needed to be in good shape for the descent. I was having second thoughts about proceeding to Whiteface.

While snacking, I watched an energetic young family arrive, pause, and then head towards Esther. Close on their heels was a young man in sneakers without a pack, water bottle, or other supplies, who also dashed off to Esther. I decided I was being overly cautious and proceeded up the path to Whiteface. Shortly before the intersection of the hiking and ski trails, the young man in sneakers bounded past me. I remarked that he "travelled light" and, with a laugh, 'super-hiker' zipped up the trail.

By 11:30 AM I crossed the alpine ski trail and at noon I reached the impressive stone bulwark of the road. Lounging by the road was super-hiker. It was comforting to know that he was a mere mortal and also needed to pause occasionally. From its intersection with the road, the trail led through low cripplebrush and finally onto bare rock where it provided unobstructed views of the summit and the surrounding peaks. Once above treeline, all thoughts of tender knee joints disappeared and there was nothing but exhilaration to be above treeline on such a perfect day.

I reached the summit at 12:20 PM and I was far from alone. I had no illusions about Whiteface's summit. My first very ascent was in the early 70's, with my family, in my Dad's '68 Chevy Belair (its brakes overheated on the descent and gave us one more souvenir of Whiteface). The summit was alive with car-trippers, hikers, bikers (the motorcycle kind), young, old, fit and the disabled. I used to dislike the idea of Whiteface's road but I grew to see its value in offering everyone the opportunity to experience a summit and perhaps develop an appreciation for the outdoors.

Whiteface's summit provides a commanding view of Mirror Lake and the High Peaks. I took the requisite self-portrait with Whiteface's mountain-shaped summit sign along with one of my bare feet and the USGS marker.

After finishing my meager lunch, a young man asked if I had time to answer a few questions. He was attending St. Lawrence College and working on a photo essay of Adirondack hikers. We had crossed paths during the ascent and I had watched him interview other hikers on the summit, so I agreed to participate. After answering the basic set of questions, and submitting to a portrait, we exchanged hiking stories and other anecdotes about the High Peaks for a good half-hour. He'll be hiking in the High Peaks for another two weeks, so if you should run into him, take a few minutes to become part of his essay.

I purchased a bottle of water and left the summit at 2:00 PM thinking that, when I'd reach the intersection with the road, I might continue my descent via the road in order to spare my knees. When I did arrive at the junction, I was feeling quite good and opted to return the way I ascended.

At the stone wall, I met the young family, Mom and Dad looking especially worse for wear after hiking Esther, making their way up the trail. I commented that the 2.5 mile side trip to Esther has a way of taking one’s spark away and they agreed. I indicated that they’d feel a good deal better once they get above treeline and it was only a few steps away. I think they’ll remember Whiteface for years to come.

I arrived at the ASRC at 4:30 PM and by 6:30 PM I was back home in Montreal. Donaldson and Seward on Saturday and Esther and Whiteface on Sunday; it was a great weekend.